Day Siete (Fri) O Grove - Sanxenxo - Ponteverda - Vigo - Baiona - Oia - A Guardia (100 miles)

Up at 9.15 so time for a quick trip to the beach and a dip in the sea, not really a swim as although the sun was out the water was still quite nippy, also time was pressing and the days new destinations calling.

Another nice day around the 20degree mark, followed the coast road south to Baiona. Was going to have a drink at the Parador at Baiona but didn’t pluck up the courage and they were none too pleased about me parking Charlotte at the entrance to Spains poshest hotel (supposedly) next to all the posh cars, so just had a quick look around the grounds and took in the cracking coastal views instead.

Upon leaving Baiona heading south I completely forgot that I was supposed to be looking out for the sizeable Virgin de la Rosa statue and missed this.

Stopped at an old monestary at Oia for lunch – cheese sandwiches are becoming a lunchtime staple this time supplemented by a bag of Jamon crisps.

Passed through La Guardia on the way to the campsite at Tomino eventually found the campsite only for it to be closed (despite checking opening hours for campsites on the Spanish tourism website and getting a CDRom of Spanish campsites it seems the listed opening dates are more of a guideline than a rule) so doubled back and found the campsite at La Guardia. This was a massive campsite with a few parked up caravans but plenty of space, only 2 others on the campsite, one couple in a large tepee tent and one in a caravan.

After pitching the tent took a trip up the hill overlooking La Guardia to see the pre roman hill fort. A trip to the supermarket to buy something for tea as the campsite bar/restaurant was closed saw me bumping into a couple of Auzzies at the checkout and a real taste sensation for tea – hot dogs with cheese inside (these continentals think of everything) and some french bread. Also some more choc croissant tings for breakfast tomorrow.

Cooked my cheesy hot dogs whilst looking over the Rio Minho to Portugal then bed when it got dark at 11pm.

Was bitten twice last night – real crackers, one on the temple and one below the lip near the chin also a smaller one on the back of my right hand. I blame those 2 earwig things I extracted from my tent this morning.

A real treat this morning with a hot shower – my first in Spain . Also noticed a bat nesting in the vast toilet/shower block.

10.5 Euros for camping plus a couple of stamps (2x30cents) for the postcards I bought in Santiago de Compostella just need to write and post the things now.

Day Seis (Thur) Portosin – Santiago de Compostella – O Grove

Looked like it might have been a wet one today (it rained lightly last night) but the rain held off. An hours stopover in Santiago De Compostella gave me a chance to view the cathedral at this World Heritage Site. Had a quick peek inside but thee was a mass going on (in Latin I think) so didn’t hang around for too long.

The northern start of the Rias Baixas is alright but quite well developed but O Grove was an inspired choice for an overnight stop. Loads of excellent beaches with hardly anyone around plus the sun beating down on me. I could spend a few days here quite happily but boredom would probably get the better of me.

Tried 4 campsites along the same stretch of road on the south of the island/penisula before I found one that was open. 18Euros a night is expensive (nearly 3x the cost of the cheapest campsite on this trip) but did have the luxury of my own private locked shower, washbasin and toilet.

A tour round O Grove gave me a beach all to myself for a swim in the reasonably warm water. Until 2 dogs came to investigate, one staying on the beach and one paddling nearly out to me but stopping before he got out of his depth. These dogs seemed fine and just interested in what was going on, that was until I got out of the water to the rocks where I had left me stuff. They were fine until I tried to leave then went mad barking away. So nipped round the rocks (away from the dogs but also my bike) then doubled back to the road where the dogs wee still hanging around the bike. A couple of smokes later and they got bored and wandered off allowing me to get my bike and the campsite for my tea and a few beers via A Toxa a small island linked to O Grove via a bridge which to be honest seemed like a rather snotty housing estate with its own security, golf club and casino.

The campsite bar had a resident nutter laughing away but offset from the actual jokes on the bad Spanish variety show. Nutter status was confirmed when the show finished and he began talking and laughing to himself only to be hushed every 15mins by the bar staff. A few bottles of Estrella Galicia and a free Russian salad (I must have either looked hungry or there were going to throw it out) whilst planning out tomorrows route on the maps and tomtom before retiring to bed with a can of Voll Damm to write todays entry.

The power point in my private bathroom means that the tomtom will get a full charge for only the 2^nd time on the trip and lessen the load on the bikes battey via the cigarette lighter socket (the tomtom cradle now not delivering a charge, which I found out today via the TDM and GS owners forum is a common fault and the reason why the Rider1 was discontinued).

Day Cinco (Wed) Baldaio - Cabo Vilan - Finisterre - Cabo Finisterre -Muros - Portosin (140miles)

Can’t really be arsed to write today so just a quick summary of the past 2 days (its now Thur night).

Cabo Vilan was the 1^st port of call yesterday, a lighthouse and monetary type place and a bloke on a bike eating chorizo y queso sandwiches.

Onto Finnestre via a lovely flowing coastal road, Finnestre itself is a nice little fishing town but the rain started when I got there so ducked into a café for a caffeine injection and an opportunity to put my waterproofs on, down the road from Finnestre is Cabo Finnestre but by the time I got there this was shrouded in mist.

Campsite at Muros was closed and no other alternative in the immediate vicinity but at least the light rain which I had encountered since Finnestre had stopped about 30mins ago. One of the guys getting the campsite ready for the season informed me that I should head 30mins down the coast to Porto Son and should be able to pick up a campsite.

A few miles short of Porto Son I found a decent campsite at Porto Sin and was approached by an English bloke whilst pitching the tent. It turns out he and his wife had been stuck there for a month after the engine on his Discovery blew up and he was still waiting on news of a replacement engine.

Estrella Galicia on tap in the bar so a few pints of that lubricated me nicely whilst wastching Real Madrid hammer Barcelona 4-1.

Day Cuatro (Tue) A Fonsgrada - Lugo - Guitriz - Betanzos - (A Coruna) - Malpica - Baldaio (150 miles)

Nice start to the day with fast sweeping roads out of Fonsgrada with no traffic in my direction.
No coffee or breakfast today apart from a bannana as by the time I was packed up it was 11.45 and I know I had a fair bit of mileage to do today.
By the time I got to Lugo it was a lovely sunny day and 22degrees according to the neon pharmacy signs. Perfect riding weather - sunny but not too hot. Took a detour via Lugo city centre to view the intact roman wall surrounding the old town. Worth seeing but hardly worth a stop with the beaches of Galicia beckoning me.
Out of Lugo the sat nav kept trying to get me onto the A6 motorway to A Coruna but I wasn’t that desperate to make up time and I knew the N VI main road ran almost parallel to the motorway so took this route instead. Made up time on the fast N VI between the towns.
Betanzos seemed a nice old town but I didn’t hang about as I was all fired up know after my breakfast/lunch of a large bag of plain olive oil crisps and can of Nestea iced lemon tea.
Following the N NI to the outskirts of A Coruna, 10 miles of motorway then hit the Galician coast with its scenery and plenty of beaches around Caion, Noicela and Razo. Made it to my destination of the fairly large fishing town of Malpica with some of the boats selling their catch at the fish market, but despite and extensive look around the area couldn’t find the campsite and being a man was far to proud to ask for directions so doubled back on myself towards the 2 campsites I had passed at Baldaio.
A reasonable campsite mainly full of caravans parked up for the year for their owners to use for a few weekends in the summer, cheap at 7.50Euros a night though but maybe a got the only tent on the campsite discount!
Bocadillo de Lomo y queso for washed down with a café con leche and a few glasses of sidre for tea at the campsite whilst sneakily charging the sat nav at the plug socket by my table. Watched the Spanish version of Trisha and the news but gave up waiting for the weather forecast so decide to take a stroll down to the beach at dusk through the nature reserve. Looks like it will be a warm night tonight, I suppose that’s the difference being at sea level and not at 1000metres+ up in the hills.

Day Tres (Mon) Los Barrios De Luna - Villablinio - Torga - Fonsgrada (100miles)

A fast flowing road to Villablinio, lots of trucks coming in the other direction but little traffic my direction. Since none of the small towns or villages I have been passing through seem to have any shops apart from the odd bar/café/restaurant I decided to look round Villablinio for a supermarket this being the only town of any size on route today. Success a 10.5 Euros purchase sets me up with a loaf of Bimbo brown bread, sliced queso, Iberico ham especiale. 2 small bottles of water, 2 bananas a tin of razor clams and a can of San Miguel 0%.
About 10miles out of Villablinio found a picnic spot at the side of the road and tucked into my packed lunch of queso sandwiches with gorgeous Iberico ham and a still clod tin of San Miguel 0%. It was a hot morning / early afternoon and the sun was shining on my little picnic.

Just after the picnic passed 2 quarries for what looked like pulverised coal. One was taking out most of the hillside on one side of the valley.
A crazy narrow road just passed Torga for 20 miles or so saw me driving on the wrong side of the narrow road to get away from the not inconsiderable dropon my side of the road, luckily only saw 3 cars on that road. Barriers only appeared on very sharp corners whilst I was concerned enough about the normal corners and what little straights there were.
Passed through Fonsgrada with no sign of the campsite so doubling back on myself found the sign for the campsite, the campsite was literally ½ mile outside town. I was the only person on the whole campsite, no hot water in the showers but there is a gym on site who’s showers I can use. Wont bother tonight as it’s quite busy but will se if its open in the morning, otherwise another camping shower me thinks.
Took a trip into town to get my tea. Turns out what I ordered thinking was meat and chick pea pimento stew turned out to be tripe with chick peas. Now cant say I’ve ever had trips before but its not exactly one of my favourites with the texture and taste of chewy slimy fat so picked this out, at least the chick peas and sauce were nice. Dinner was washed down with some Estrella Galicia. Same make as Estrella Dam that I’m used to drinking in Barcelona but a slightly stronger flavour, not quite as sweet and made with water, barley malt, maize and hops. The other purchase of the night was a couple of pack of Nobel from the Tabac for 5 Euros.
Upon getting back to the campsite the sun was going down and was getting a bit nippy so time to get the fleece on, think I’ll wear it to bed tonight too. Turned out I was glad of the fleece last night and was still a bit cold despite this. Another Nobel to smoke before bed with a bat fluttering past my head also heard a rustling in the trees, shone my head torch in the direction and got a pair of eyes staring back at me, just a cat I thought untill a moment later a pine martin is staring me in the face some 2metres in front of me. Nearly shat myself but consider myself lucky to have seen it. Also luckily not up all night needing a piss after the beers.

Day Dos (Sun) La Vega - Riano - Los Barrios De Luna - Sena De Luna (112 miles)

Not a great nights sleep last night for my 1st night in the tent, colder than expected but then I was up in the hills. Up at 9.30, packed up my gear, a campfire coffee and some porridge and on the road for around 11.
Fantastic road out of La Vega heading towards Riano, quite a climb and some lovely twisting curves and a few hairpins.

Checked out the campsite at Riano, its open, looks fine so all set for a stop off on the return leg. Also spotted a massive white headed eagle circling just before Riano followed by a Maribou stork type bird sitting on a huge nest ½ way down the road to Los Barrios de Luna.
Some fairly fast straights roads out of Riano with not much of note scenery wise until the bit before Los Barrios De Luna. About 10miles short of Senna de Luna heard a few claps of thunder in a nearby valley so stopped and put the waterproofs on. Next thing I know its pissing down with a proper downpour, can hardly see where I’m going so look for a place to stop off and eventually find a bus shelter to wait out the worst of the rain for 15mins or so. Set off again when it looked a bit lighter only to get caught in another heavy thunderstorm 7 miles short of Senna de Luna.
Got to the campsite and set up in the rain only for it to clear up and the sun come out once I was finished. Campsite is ok, nothing special but the view from outside my tent to the hill behind the village is amazing.

A shower with hot water! Then time for a café can leche and some nosebag, all that was on offer was a bocadillo with chorizo and queso so took that, can’t complain for 4 Euros. After tea went on the hunt for petrol and smokes, found petrol 3 miles down the road and was served by some old Spanish guy going on about something - turns out they had no change and needed exact money. Petrol at 1.19Euro a litre is ok.
No Tabac’s in evidence in any of the small villages but the bar in Senna de Luna has a vending machine at 2.65 Euro a pack so looks like I’m back on the Nobel with a quick cerveza at the bar to wash it down with.
Quick run up to the village the others side of the campsite then a couple of beers at the campsite bar before a hot choc and bed. Feeling cold again tonight so time to bust out the silk sleeping bag liner and test the claimed extra 5degrees of warmth.
It turned out to be very cold and misty last good thing I’m of hearty Scottish stock.

Dia Una (Sat) Bilbao (Santurtzi) - Santilliana del Mar - Potes - Fuente De - La Vega (155 miles)

Woken at 5.45am ships and British time and saw the sunrise over the Pais Vasco/Euskadi coast with a smoke on deck.
The bike was all in 1 piece when I got down to the car deck and started 1st time meaning the alarm hadn’t been going off for the last 34hrs onboard. Straight thorough Spanish customs with a cursory look at my passport although how the compared this to a bloke in a motorcycle helmet with tinted visor and foggy mask obscuring everything below my nose means they must be better at their job than the impression they gave off casual lounging about in their shades smoking Ducados. Good thing I’m not an international terrorist or drug smuggler but they didn’t offer those course at my Uni.
As I’d forgotten about the early start and the resultant mild sleep deprived vino tinto fuzziness that ensued I was soon out of Pais Vasco/Euskadi and around the Cantabrian coast and in Santilliana del Mar by 12.30. The place was heaving with a large wedding going on but had the nice scenery of all the lovely senora’s in their best wedding outfits all the better for their skimpyness given the nice day.
As I was already at my first planned stop by lunchtime I decided to press onto Potes and save myself a day for later in the trip.
Swapping the coastal scenery for the hills things really picked up scenery wise passed Panes and saw plenty of bikes on the road between Panes and Potes and onward to Fuente De. Usual mix of Power Rangers on sports bikes and Ewan McGregor wannabes on big GS’s, still a friendlier lot than british bikes with nearly everyone acknowledging me and I soon picked up the 2 fingered peace type clutch hand acknowlgement geasture. Also a few quads in attendance but these are all restricted so passed them easily.
A 30 miles round trip detour to Fuente De from Potes taking advantage of the fast sweeping road and scenery. Fuente De was fairly busy with punters taking the cable car up the mountain but I had a campsite to find at LA Vega so pressed on.
On the road back through the touristy town of Potes saw a stunning girl the picture of Penelope Cruz and nearly went into the back of the car in front, good thing me were only crawling along.
The campsite at La Vega was quite quiet with only me camping, a French couple in a motor home and some Spaniards in a couple of the bungalows. At check in there was it was obvious that the campsite owner was trying to tell me something but as in common with most Spaniards over 25 he didn’t speak a word of English and my linguistic skills are hardly shit hot but sign language prevailed and it turned out there was no hot water. So after my first of may cold showers of the trip, actually quite welcome given the 25degree heat today, I made a trip to the bar for a couple of San Miguels before dinner, unfortunately they weren’t doing food at the campsite and it was a 20min trip back up the road to Potes so Ainsley Harriott to the rescue with some spice sensation couscous and a Scottish style Chicken and Leek soup for a taste of home from the emergency stash cooked up on the old camp stove.

Dia -Una (Fri) At Sea

Up at 9am so not much of a lie in. Breakfast at 12 which was actually lunch of Chicken & Leek pie, potatoes and veg, tasted ok and at 8squid with free desert of Lemon Meringue Pie not as much of a rip off as was expecting.
By 1pm I couldn’t put off the trip to the on board offy any more and felt quite restrained this year waiting till the afternoon. A couple of bottles of Campo Veijo Rioja, the 1st of which helped pass the early afternoon before my siesta, the 2nd of which helped pass the evening. Not much else to report apart from some more GTA action on the PSP and Johnny Vegas making a living in Ideal. Cartoon Head really is an inspired character in this. Bed at 1am.

Dia -Dos (Thur) Home - Portsmouth

Hectic day getting everything put together on the bike - makes me wish I had packed earlier and not just done jack last weekend. Still all came together and set off with the bike feeling very heavy and strange fully loaded, with a couple of wobbles while I got used to it. Still the load should be lightened a bit by the time I arrive in spain having polished off my supplies of booze, fruit and Irn Bru for the ferry crossing.
Arrived at the port at Portsmouth at 8pm. Good timing as just enough time to check in, collect my travel money at the piss poor rate of 1.2271 and 1.2349 and have a quick cup of coffee.
Bikes onto the ferry 1st again, I’m still not convinced about them only using a bit of rope with a cushion on the seat to strap the bikes down but it worked ok last time. Some Irish bloke I couldn’t understand (and that’s after knowing Dublin Dave at Uni) tied the bike down but was still a bit loose so another of the ferry guys retied it. Just hope that the 9er’s alarm doesn’t go off during the crossing and flatten the battery.
Same shit different day on the ferry with the “mini cruise” passengers on a piss up, brought a litre of vino tinto with me meaning I escaped these fine examples of the diversity of the gene pool and just as well as the ships shop was closed when we departed.
The inside cabin was ok with 2 single beds this time (as opposed to bunks last time) and had the quality feature of curtains to give the impression of an outside cabin although the view of the wall wasn’t up to much.

Played a bit of Grand Theft Auto Vice City on the PSP and watched some rips of Ideal series 2. Bed at 1 as I’ve got a bit day tomorrow trying to waste a whole day on the ferry.